Starting to learn a sewing pattern, we first learn how to make the basic pattern for a blouse. In this pattern we see how to use the darts to achieve a good fit to highlight the woman’s body in the best way.
The darts are folds (internal pleats), which are used to remove a piece of fabric in specific parts of the body, but mainly on the chest. We often find them in all kinds of clothes because they adapt the garment to the user’s body. They can even help design different shapes in the garment.
So how to make your favourite t-shirt pattern?
|Neck circumference||36 cm.|
|Shoulder length||13 cm|
|Armpit height||23 cm.|
|Chest circumference||92 cm.|
|Waist height||45 cm|
|Waist size||72 cm.|
|Hip size||100 cm.|
|Waist – hips distance||20 cm.|
For the front t shirt pattern:
- Make a right angle to the left, from point 0.
- 0 – 1: The 1/5 of the neck.
- 0 – 2: 8 cm.
- 1 – 3: It is the length of the shoulder. Draw a vertical dashed line 5 cm, up to point 4.
- 1 – 4: Join the points to form the shoulder line.
- 1 -2: Join the points with the curvilinear, forming a deep curve as in the drawing.
- 0 – 5: It is the height of the armpit.
- 0 – 6: It is the height of the waist. Draw a horizontal line.
- 5 – 7: It is 1/4 of the chest circumference +2 cm.
- 6 – 8: It is the waist – hips distance. Draw a horizontal line.
- 4 – 7: Join the points forming a nice armpit curve.
- 7 – 9: Join the dots if you want a straight line for the blouse. like the classic t shirts.
But if you want a blouse that highlights the waist then you will measure both the waist and the hips in the following way:
Waist: 72/4 = 18, 18 + 2 = 20 (+2 cm to shift the side seam backwards).
The air we will give in the waist depends on how wide or narrow we want to make our blouse. But 4 to 5 cm is necessary even when we want it to be tight around the waist.
Hips: 100/4 = 25, 25 + 2 = 27 (+2 cm to shift the side seam backwards).
So we measure 25 cm. on the waist line and 27 cm. on the hip line. We form nice curves.
The basic pattern at the point of the armpit is quite high. To give some air to the armpit, we usually go down 3 cm and reshape its curve.
For the back t shirt pattern:
We follow the same procedure for the back side pattern as we did to the front. We form it first basic pattern for a blouse the back part without the darts.
- Make a right angle to the right, from point 0.
- 0 -1: 2 cm.
- 0 – 2: The 1/5 of the neck – 0.2 cm. Draw the back curve of the neck. 1 – 2
- 2 – 3: The length of the shoulder. Form a dashed vertical 5 cm, the point 5.
- 2 – 4: The shoulder line.
- 0 – 5: The height of the armpit. Draw a horizontal line.
- 0 – 6: The length of the waist. Draw a horizontal line.
- 6 – 7: The waist – hips distance. Draw a horizontal line.
- 5 – 8: It is 1/4 of the chest circumference
- 6 – 9: The width of the waist back. 72/4 = 18, 18-2 = 16 cm. (-2 to shift the side seam). In the waist we will give the same air that we gave to the front part. That is +5 cm.
- 7 – 10: It is the back hips 100/4 = 25, 25-2 = 23 cm. (-2 to shift the side seam).
In the armpit we descend as in the front 3 cm. and reshape the armpit curve.
We leave seam allowance and cut! ! !
Patterns without darts are not recommended for women with large chest.
For neck and armpit facings, bias tape from the fabric itself or ready-made commercial bias tapes, fixed or elastic for each case, are usually used.
Bias tape is a narrow piece of fabric used to strengthen the seams. Facing makes a garment look professionally finished. We can make it ourselves by cutting a piece of fabric 4 cm wide and as long as we need, from the very fabric we used for the blouse.
Fold it in the iron 4 times.