Basic trouser pattern

Basic trouser pattern.

παντελόνια - pants
Βασικό πατρόν για παντελόνι

Pants in most women’s wardrobes have a primary role. And if you want to make your own clothes, in your own fabrics with your own taste, then you must know how to make the basic trouser pattern. That’s where all pants designs start.

We will make No 46 from Greek standards measurements.

Measurements are in centimeters. Use the converter below.
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The measurements we will need are:

  • Waist circumference 72 cm.
  • Hip circumference 100 cm.
  • Waist – hip distance 20 cm.
  • Crotch height 25 cm.
  • Crotch width 5 cm.
  • Middle crease (from center front) 11 cm.
  • Outer seam length 99 cm.
  • Inseam length 75 cm.

Basic trouser pattern.

Βασικό πατρόν για παντελόνι
Measurements are in centimeters. Use the converter below.
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Instructions:

Basic trouser pattern.

A. In front
  • Draw a rectangle with a base equal to 1/4 of the hip circumference and a height from the waist to the ankle. That is, in our example it will be: Base 25 cm. and height 99 cm. Name the angles 0, 1, 2, 3. (The rectangle in the drawing is shown with dotted lines).
  • From point 4 form the waist line to point 5. The average is equal to: 72/4 = 18 cm.
  • From point 1 measure 20 cm. for the waist – hips distance. There he drew a horizontal line. The line of the hips that is equal to: 100/4 = 25, 25-1 = 24 cm. (-1 to shift the side seam).
  • The height of the crotch is the semi-circumference of the hips / 2. That is: 50/2 = 25 cm. Measures 25 cm. from point 1 and draw a horizontal line equal to 1/4 of the hip circumference + 5 cm. which is the protrusion of the crotch. Point 6.
  • The position of the knee is cm. from the hips and down by 2 + 1/10 of it. That is, if the entire length of the pants is 99 cm. then: 99-20 = 79, 79/2 = 39.5, 39.5 / 10 = 3.95, 39.5 + 3.95 = 43.5 cm. Measures from the hips and below 43.5 cm. to find the position of the knee.
  • The width of the pants at the knee can be found as follows. 24 cm. 1/4 of the hip circumference and for: a) wide 24/2 = 12 b) Normal 24-1 = 23, 23/2 = 11.5 c) Narrow 24-2 = 22, 22/2 = 11 here we show a pair of tight pants so from the fold line and above the knee line 11 cm. left and right. Points 7 and 8.
  • The width of the ankle is the width of the knee -1 cm. Measures 10 cm. from the fold line and onto the ankle line left and right.
  • It’s time to construct the pants. From point 5 to the crotch line, draw a sharp curve as in the drawing.
  • From the crotch line to the ankle you should form the side passing through point 8. You will achieve this by turning with the curvilinear. Notice the curves in the drawing.
  • The line of the crotch with the center front form a right angle. Divide it into two acute ones, and go up 2.5 cm. This will help in the correct design of the crotch.
  • Join the waist with the crotch passing through the hips and the crotch with the ankle. And here the curvilinear is your best friend.

Basic trouser pattern.

Β. Back

The design of the rear is based on the front design. For this reason it is drawn on the front and then we copy it. The drawing on the right shows the whole process. With large dashed lines it is the rectangular base, with small dashed lines it is the front and that with the regular lines is the back.

  • Take the measurement from point 0 to the fold line. Divide by 2 and at this point go up 2 cm.
  • Form the waist line passing through point 1. In the center back you need a dart 2 to 3 cm, so it is 18 + 2 = 20 cm.
  • From the center front, the hips should be 25 + 1 = 26 cm, where we removed 1 cm from the front part.
  • In the crotch measure 1 cm down and pull line twice as far forward. That is 2 * 5 = 10 cm.
  • In the acute angle that we created before now we get 4 cm to properly form its back curve. There are some auxiliary points that I show in the drawing for the formation of the curve. Join the waist with the crotch.
  • From the knee and the ankle we come out 1 cm above, left and right, from the front. Join all the points with your curvy girlfriend.
GOOD LUCK !
βιβλίο πατρόν

PATTERN BOOK (GREEK)

Pattern notes for skirts by Maro Pappa. 17 techniques used in all skirt patterns.
βιβλία για πατρόν ρούχων

DIGITAL BOOK PDF (IN GREEK)

Pattern notes for skirts by Maro Pappa in PDF file. 17 pattern techniques to learn the basics.

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