Basic blouse pattern

Basic blouse pattern

blouse pattern
βασικό πατρόν κορσάζ - basic blouse pattern

Here we will show how to design the basic blouse pattern. That is, the base from where all designs for blouses, dresses, shirts (with small variations), coats, etc. start. We will make our example with No. 46 from the Greek standard sizes.

Measurements are in centimeters. Use the converter below.
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Measurements needed:

  • Neck circumference 36 cm.
  • Shoulder length 13 cm.
  • Armpit height 23 cm.
  • Chest circumference 92 cm.
  • Talia 45 cm.
  • Waist circumference 72 cm.
  • Hip circumference 20 cm.
βασικό πατρόν κορσάζ - basic blouse pattern

Instructions:

A. In front

  • Make a right angle to the left, from point 0.
  • 0 – 1: The 1/5 of the neck.
  • 0 – 2: 8 cm.
  • 1 – 3: It is the length of the shoulder. Draw a vertical dashed line 5 cm, up to point 4.
  • 1 – 4: Join the points to form the shoulder line.
  • 1 -2: Join the points with the curvilinear, forming a deep curve as in the drawing.
  • 0 – 5: It is the height of the armpit.
  • 0 – 6: It is the waist height. Draw a horizontal line.
  • 5 – 7: It is 1/4 of the chest circumference +2 cm.
  • 6 – 8: It is the waist-hips distance. Draw a horizontal line.
  • 4 – 7: Join the points forming a nice armpit curve.
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And now it’s all just math:

  • Chest (shoulder) dart position. If we have chest 92 cm. then: 92/2 = 46, 46/2 = 23, 23/2 = 11.5, 11.5 – 1 = 10.5 cm. From point 5, count 10.5 cm. and pulled a vertical up and down. Line 11 – 12.
  • Chest dart length. If we have chest 92 cm. then: 92/2 = 46, 46/2 = 23, 23 + 3 = 26 cm. From the point 1 count with the measuring tape 26 cm. .
  • Width of the dart. If the chest is 92 cm. then: 92/2 = 46, 46/10 = 4.6, 4.6 + 2 = 6.6 cm. From point 1 and above the shoulder line, measures 6.6 cm. Join the points to form the breast dart.
  • Waist front: 72/4 = 18, 18 + 2 = 20 (+2 cm. For shifting the side seam backwards). 20 + 2 = 22 cm. (where 2 cm is the waist dart). Measures 22 cm. from point 6 to point 9.
  • Hip width: 100/4 = 25, 25 + 2 = 27 (+2 cm to shift the side seam backwards). Measures 27 cm. from point 8 to point 10.
  • Measure the shoulder line and close the dart. You will need to reshape the shoulder line. Go down 3 cm. from point 7 and make a new armpit curve from the new shoulder line. As in the plan.
  • Put the waist dart on line 11 – 12. The width of the dart is 2 cm and the depth is 7 cm, as in basic pattern design of the skirt. Its height will reach the nipple (point 13), if you are going to sew the darts. But if you want to remove them, then go down 3 cm. from the nipple.
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Β. Back

  • Make a right angle to the right, from point 0.
  • 0 -1: 2 cm.
  • 0 – 2: The 1/5 of the neck – 0.2 cm. Draw the back curve of the neck. 1 – 2
  • 2 – 3: The length of the shoulder. Form a dashed vertical 5 cm, point 5.
  • 2 – 5: The shoulder line.
  • 0 – 5: The height of the armpit. Draw a horizontal line.
  • 0 – 6: The waist height. Draw a horizontal line.
  • 6 – 7: The waist – hips distance. Draw a horizontal line.
  • 5 – 8: It is 1/4 of the chest circumference
  • 6 – 9: The width of the waist back. 72/4 = 18, 18-2 = 16 cm. (-2 for the displacement of the side seam), 16 + 3 = 19 cm. (where 3 cm the dart back)
  • 7 – 10: It is the width of the hips back. 100/4 = 25, 25-2 = 23 cm. (-2 to shift the side seam).
  • Measures 5 cm from point 2 and put a dart 1.5 cm wide and depth 8 cm.
  • For the waist dart we find the point by dividing the waist width by 2, without the dart. That is, in the example we have a waist of 16 cm. So we will put the dart at 8 cm from point 6. The dart will have a width of 3 cm, depth up to the hips and a height of 14 cm. Its slope must be towards the top shoulder dart.
  • Close the shoulder dart. You will need to reshape the shoulder line.
  • Go down 3 cm. in the armpit, as well as in the front.
  • Form the curve of the armpit a little sharper than the front. As in the plan.
  • It also formed the curves of the waist and hips.

The basic blouse pattern is ready.

Good luck !

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