Base for skirt
Here we will see how we make the base from which all skirt designs start. Example with number 46 from the Greek standard sizes.
(Measurements are in centimeters. Convert centimeters to inches here.)
Measurements needed:
- Waist Circumference (72cm)
- Hip Circumference (100cm)
- Waist – hip distance (20 cm)
The fit of the skirt becomes better if we move the side seam 1 cm back to each side. This sewing pattern is based on this rule.
sewing pattern for skirt
sewing pattern for skirt
Instructions:
A. In front
- 2-1-5: Start by drawing a right angle to the left.
- 1-2: Equivalent to 1/4 of the waist circumference + 2cm. (to compensate the dart), + 1 cm. to move the side seam backwards. So 72/4= 18, 18+2+1= 21 cm.
- 1-3: Go down for 20 cm. Here are the hips. According to standard standards, this is the right distance. But as we said, every woman is unique. You measure your body as describedhere.
- 3-4: Equivalent to 1/4 of the hip circumference +1 cm. to move the side seam backwards. So 100/4= 25, 25+1= 26 cm.
- 1/5: The skirt length. A knee-length skirt is usually 60 cm.
- 5-6: This is the width of the bottom of the skirt, which is the same as the width of the hips and equal to 26 cm. At point 6, climb 1 cm. in the side seam. This will give a nice curve to the hem.
How to draw the dart in the waist:
Find the center of the points 1-2 (10,5 cm.). At this point give from 1 cm. right and left (since our darts are 2 cm) and its depth will be 8 cm.
From the point 2 go up 1 cm. and formed a new curve until the beginning of the dart. This way we have a better fit to the waist.
Β. Back
The design of the rear pattern is almost the same as the front. The only thing that changes is the measurements.
- 1-2: Equivalent to 1/4 of the waist circumference +3 cm. for the dart -1 for the side seam. So 72/4= 18, 18+3-1= 20 cm.
- 2-4: Go down 20 cm. Here are the hips.
- 3-4: Equivalent to 1/4 of the hip circumference -1 for the side seam. So 100/4= 25, 25-1= 24 cm.
- 2-6: Is the skirt length.
- 6-5: It is the width of the hem, which is the same as the width of the hips and equal to 24 cm. As in the front, so in the back we climb from the side seam 1 cm. This gives a nice curve to the hem.
How to design the dart on the back of the skirt:
The design of the darts on the back of the skirt is done in a similar way to the front. The differences are in the width of the darts which is 3 cm and in its depth which reaches 12 cm, to fit better in the body.
At the point 2 go up 1 cm. like you did to the front.
Belt
It is a rectangle, whose horizontal side is equal to the circumference of the waist +3 cm. needed to fasten the back. The height because it will be folded in two is 8 cm. (if we assume that our belt will be 4 cm). If the fabric requires it, we cut our belt on the sides and we have 3 pieces. The whole front and the two rear.
sewing pattern for skirt
(Measurements are in centimeters. Convert centimeters to inches here.)
sewing pattern for skirt
Extra information !
- Now that we have finished the design of our straight skirt we can turn it, inA line or pencil line, very easily and quickly. All we have to do is go out 5 cm at the hem for line A or go in correspondingly 3 cm for the pencil, at point 6. Front and back of course.
- There is not a seam at the center front. This means either cutting the fabric folded or folding our paper in the center front line and copying to have the whole front.
- Usually we put the zipper in the center of the back of the skirt where there is also a seam. This means that if we have to place an 18 cm zipper, we have to show it on the pattern with a mark. That is, we note the position of the zipper. We put marks everywhere in the sewing patterns. On the hips, in the depths and at the ends of the darts, on the hem. Generally where needed to help the one who will sew it. Even if you sew it yourself, you will see that marks are necessary.
- We never forget the seam allowance. It is usually 1 cm. in all our lines and 2 – 4 cm in the hem.
After you are done with all the stages and you are sure that everything is correct, cut out the basic sewing pattern for skirt and you are ready!
BASE FOR PANTS
